London Collections: Men AW ’14
London has for many years shown that it is among the best in delivering diversely creative collections, with bellowing trouser shapes and oversized outerwear being a focal point for many up and coming designers. However this season the capital showed something that most had been calling out for: wearable elegance. Gone had the anti fit of seasons before as brands paired back the fireworks for an empahasis on texture, fit and design.
GIEVES & HAWKES
Under the creative direction of Jason Basmajian, formerly of Italian house Brioni, Gieves & Hawkes demonstrated a homage to their military aesthetic honing in on outerwear coated in crocodile, velvet and cashmere. The nod to more illustrious yet attainable fabrics was referenced throughout the many collections that followed, as Richard James, E. Tautz and A. Sauvage all deliverd lessons in texture and wealth.
The latter was of particular note. Having dressed some of society’s high flyers Adrien Sauvage‘s career has taken him along many paths. Reflected in the debutant’s collection was his redefinition of Africa – shown in an eclectic array of prints. The display showed Sauvage’s maturity as wearable silhouettes were paired with oversized jackets in tones of deep purple and velvet green. His emphasis on wearable seperates was impressive – a testament to the need for transferable pieces in a time of economic instability. After all only true quality can exist over time.