Marwood Spring Summer ’13 : Transparent Grids
Ordinarily JOSHUA’s are fearful to stray from classic design, for fear of detracting from what has taken many years to perfect. Having said that, the right combination of modern technology, ingenuity and respect to tradition can augment a garment’s appeal and reify it to a modern audience.
Detailed, focused and carefully considered, Marwood have reinvented the concept of necktie design using finest fabrics such as woven silk, wool and traditional English Leavers lace. Made and deisgned in the UK, Marwood’s design has fast seen them become leaders in alternative formal neckwear, earning them accounts with the omniscient sartorialists Mr Porter, and the characterful Liberty to name a few. Today JOSHUA’s take a look at Marwood’s Spring Summer ’13 collection entitled ‘Transparent Grids‘.
Marwood’s SS13 collection was inspired by a meeting between Marwood designer, Becky French and Artist, Toni Davey and their shared enthusiasm for the theme of Transparency1.
“To draw, to cut, to score, to fold, two dimensions into three: manipulating light and shadow. The surface evolves” – Toni Davey
In Davey’s work the underlying structure of the grid is an ever present. Toni2 engineers the flat surface of the paper into intricate 3D form by hand. Marwood designer French chose to use three pieces of her work that showed a variety of techniques. These included “Evolver” – burnt, scored fold lines, “3D Weave” where each laser cut is hand pushed through to an exact angle repeatedly and “Wave” – a non symmetrical piece that creates fluid movement throughout. The intention was to reveal Davey’s working process and to recreate her work as patterns, adding the constraints of another grid – the warp and weft.
Marwood accessories allow the wearer unique and playful options for those infrequent yet important special events as well as everyday attire.
In addition to this, sheer ties made in Swiss cotton voile reveal the make inside – every fold, knot and stitch – a modern visual to explain the hand made tie’s hidden value. Woven dip-dyed jacquards in cutwork houndstooth, appear partially covered by screens of coloured light. Natural linen/silk ties are outlined with importance at the tip with solid satin colour of navy or tonal mink. Admitting light through its surface, Marwood’s signature lace is dyed navy and is made in to ties, bows, pocket squares and scarves.
The collection introduces the growth of the Marwood offering with UK made braces and escorial wool and silk scarves, as well as a range of dusty coloured silk – a summer version of AW12’s slub silk. Who knew there were so many alternative fabric options to velvet and plain silk in formal attire? Marwood did, and they seem intent on showing us more options for seasons to come. We look forward to seeing them unfold.
PHOTOS: ALI MOBASSER
- Having the property of transmitting rays of light through its substance so that bodies situated beyond or behind can be distinctly seen - So sheer as to permit light to pass through; diaphanous - Easily seen through, recognized, or detected: transparent excuses - Permitting the uninterrupted passage of light; a clear - Candid, open or frank. ↩
- Photographed by Ali Mobasser using images of Toni Davey’s created artworks for Marwood. ↩